The 1956
Revolution, the siege of Budapest during World War II before that – all
literally left their mark on the face of the city. Budapest has seen its fair
share of violence. And while we spend so much time talking about the scars from
that violence, we don't spend near enough time talking about what is beneath the
scars.
Before the First
World War, Budapest was a centre of
rich culture, scientific endeavour and engineering achievement. It was the second city of the mighty
Austro-Hungarian Empire. Beneath today's bullet holes and decade of neglect, this is the real
Budapest.
Explosive economic
and industrial growth created incredible wealth back then. Writers and thinkers gathered
in the coffee houses. Classical masterpieces were composed and performed in the
Opera House.
This is a city
where the continent’s first
subway system was built. They built the Chain Bridge, at the time was one of
the longest bridges in Europe over one of the world’s mightiest rivers – a feat
of engineering.
This is also when
most of the city’s apartment blocks went up in the city’s centre. Thick-walled,
high-ceilinged, with dramatic sculptures on the front – many of these have
survived decades destruction and disuse visited upon the city. And all this time many people, like me,
now live here too.
The layers of
upheaval and violence that have passed through the city have added layers of
grottiness over that grandeur, but it’s easy to get a feel for Budapest’s old
time urban beauty and grandeur as you walk down the streets.
Those grand, old days
might be long gone, but this is a city that seems to embrace its entire past,
from the Old World ostentation to its more recent decrepitude, like the new ruin bars
pop up in old, vacant apartment blocks.
But that’s an
easy example.
Many of these buildings
were put up during a massive building boom from the 1870s until the 1910s. They have
lasted as long as they have because they are built like fortresses.
While opportunistic
people build their ruin bars, by and large people live in these buildings, as
they have since they went up. The limestone fades but it lasts, the stone Atlas out front
crumble but still bear their load. All the while life goes on beneath the facade – families are raised, courtyard gardens,
hidden from the streets, are tended and lives are lived.
