The self-indulgent chronicles of a writer's adventures in Berlin, and elsewhere.
Working at a Strange, New Workplace
Four months ago I was laid off along with my entire team. It's never easy being laid off, but when you work in advertising you get accustomed to the knowledge that it's a possibility.
I joined my first agency in a recession, watched it grow, then departed as clients left and employees were shed. A few years later, I watched another agency gradually lay off colleagues and close down as the sole client shifted business elsewhere.
Stints at ad agencies are often short — clients and employees move frequently from agency to agency as budgets rise and fall — so I was happy to stay at my most recent agency for as long as I did. I made the acquaintance of some great people, did some good work, had a few laughs, and learned a few things along the way.
But all things must come to an end – it's the only way other things can begin.
I've started at a new agency, with new people, new clients, and new challenges. This is the first job I've had in almost five years where I didn't relocate to another city to start work. So while the excitement and nervousness is there, its amplitude is turned down from Life-Changing-Big-Step-Culture-Shock to Oh-a-Different-Commute-to-a-New-Office-With-New-People's-Names-to-Remember.
What a lovely, yet strange feeling to not have to turn your life upside down for a new job.
The Ruins of Xanten
Xanten's temple. |
To see
what remains of the Romans in this corner of Europe, you take a train to
Duisberg. There, you change trains and ride northwest, in the direction of the
Netherlands.
You leave
the Rhineland, and enter the Lower Rhine. As you
ride to your destination — that train's last stop — the land flattens out,
towns spread out with more cows grazing between them, the houses look more
Dutch than German, and there are more signs selling raw herring.
After a
nearly two-hour train ride, you're in Xanten, Germany.
The Roman
ruins are in a fenced park just outside the small, old town. The fence
runs along where the Roman city's walls once stood. There is a
glass-and-steel museum, built over the remains of the Roman bathhouse. There's a temple, an amphitheatre, a rebuilt gate.
We arrived on a day when the park's staff had erected dozens of tents to house
craftspeople making Roman-style leather and metalwork, carving stone blocks, and
braiding hair in the Roman style. Kids were everywhere, trying the activities out.
Kids or
not, it's a great afternoon out, especially on a sunny day.
"Are you not entertained?!?" |
We've come across Roman ruins in Pecs, Hungary; Sofia,
Bulgaria; Istria in Croatia; Trier, Germany; and, yes, Rome.
Considering
the amount of ruins that can be visited across Europe, Rome's leftovers
can seem as commonplace as McDonald's — for number of locations and their architectural consistency. I've seen two city gates now, a few temples, the colosseum, a few smaller colosseums,
ampitheatres, a bathhouse, and various rocks, bricks, stones, column stubs, and
ancient foundations.
It's not
that I get tired of seeing it in so many places. It's the opposite: I'm in awe
that I see them all over the place.
We can
all appreciate the Romans' ability to build incredible feats of engineering
without modern technology, but their ability to build these feats in so many places, and that so many have survived, is
astonishing.
It takes hard work to achieve that kind of ancient standardization.
Much of
the stone in Xanten was shipped in from quarries to the south. The town layout
was in a grid pattern, with exact 90 degree angles. Xanten's gate was built to similar specifications of the
gate in Trier. And it was linked with the rest of the Roman Empire by the roads
that led to Rome, the rest of Europe, the Middle East, and Africa.
One of
the great things about living in Europe is how close you live to history. Sometimes, you discover a slice of people's lives from a long time ago
or bask in the glory of some medieval ruler. In rare cases, you're able to wrap your
head around the scope of an ancient empire.
The museum and the bathhouse exhibit, built to the bathhouse's specifications but with different materials. |
Getting German Wrong Until It's Right
Ein bier, bitte! |
I started learning German after I found a job in Germany in 2014. It wasn't a serious effort,
just a free app, but my intention was to get a head start before I
arrived.
After
a few days in
Germany, I knew an app wasn't going to cut it. My new employers had promised
German lessons, so I
doubled my efforts on the cheapskate app while I awaited the real thing. By the time my employers said
there wouldn't be lessons after all, the app told me I had 26 percent fluency.
Of
course, that number was bullshit.
Learning a language is like hiking. You can study
maps of the trail, check the elevation, and buy some comfy boots, but you have
no idea what you're in for until you start hit the trail. It might be rockier and much steeper than you
anticipated, maybe the air is a little thinner up there too. You don't know
anything about the trail until you start walking it.
When I started German class, I noticed that despite
the hours of tapping and swiping at my app, I couldn't speak the language in a
pinch. Slowly, I realized you learn a
language by doing it.
The novice German speaker practicing his skills in public encounters two types of Germans.
There are the sympathetic Germans who nod encouragingly at your clumsy efforts. And there's those who are
annoyed with your crappy German: "You're in Germany! Why can't you speak
German yet?"
The first
group has some lingual empathy, often from pecking at another language, and understand the notorious
difficulties of learning any language, especially German.
Take the pronoun sie. It can
mean she, her, it, they, them, or the polite you. I must listen carefully for
the conversation's context to understand if a German speaker is talking to my
group, addressing me politely, or questioning my manhood.
This
would lead you to believe the German language is running low on words, but this
is a language whose precision gives you so many lovely words, like Treppenwitz, as in stair joke, that witty
comeback you thought of after you've left the room and walked down the stairs.
That precision also gives it those frighteningly long
compound nouns, like Rentenversicherungsverlaub, which is a pension insurance thingy I recently picked up from a
few different government
offices.
The native German speaker, like the native speaker of
any language, has been using their language since childhood, so they sometimes
take the utter strangeness of their grammar for granted. There are masculine,
feminine, and neutral nouns. There are three cases for articles: nominative,
accusative, and goddamn dative… oh! and the forgotten fourth, genitive. Which case you use depends on what's
happening to the nouns in the sentence.
That means there are seven versions of the
(der, die, das, den, dem, der, des) and another six versions of a (ein, eine, einen, einem, einer, eines).
You might be able to study your way into memorizing when to use them
but there are exceptions, and the German speaker's language, despite their
stereotype as a rule-and-regulation-loving race, is riddled with just as many
exceptions as rules. Plus, I haven't even touched the subject of verbs, which
is another lengthy blogpost you're apt to skip.
German is
difficult. So is English or French. As a Canadian I was taught French for over
ten years in elementary and high school. We wrote out verb conjugations and
memorized noun genders. I didn't really learn French until I moved to Montreal
and took an intensive class, where we had to speak French in class.
As I
listened to and spoke French, I developed a sense of what sounds right and
wrong, what sounds masculine or feminine. Think of it like tuning an
instrument, you never know it's flat until you play it. Then you hear it's off
and make adjustments and play it and make more adjustments until it sounds
right.
You
can study. You can memorize. You won't learn a thing until you find your feet
and find your voice, and get out there and keep getting it wrong until you get
it right.
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