Friends in faraway places

The customs guy looked at my passport and back at me. “You’re from Canada, on your way home from Stockholm?”

“Yes,” I said.

“Home, as in Canada?”

“No, home to Budapest.”

He scrunched his brow. “So, what is the purpose of your,” he looked down at my customs form, “one-day visit to the UK?”

“I’m visiting a hometown friend.”

He looked at my passport again. “London?”

“Yes, London, Canada. We’re hanging out here in the bigger London.”

He waved me through after a few more routine questions and that prompted more routine answers from me. The second leg of my journey began.

Beautiful Stockholm at night.

Beautiful Stockholm in the day.

The journey ultimately kicked off a few days earlier, with my arrival to Stockholm. Alek – of past bro-mantic adventures in Rome and Vienna – was already there. He was looking around town, getting chummy with the hotel staff, finding bars – important groundwork.

Our timing could not have been better. It was the first spring weekend in city. Swedes, like Canadians on the first day of great spring weather, had donned their short sleeves and skirts, took to their bikes, flocked to the bar patios, and stubbornly stayed out as long as they could before the post-sunset hypothermia set in.

The vibes in Stockholm were amazing. The city, already beautiful in its own right, was made friendly and cheerful by this sunny, blue-skied weather. We hit the patios, visited museums, wandered the streets and the waterfront, and went clubbing. We saw a shipwrecked ship in a museum (the Vasa), ate salmon, and decided Stockholm was a damn fine place.

That is an old timey Swedish warship inside a museum.

The visit finished quicker than it should have and Alek and I parted ways. He went north for where his flight would take him back to family in Warsaw. I went south, way out of the city to an airport that would take me to London.

Good weather, good beer, good times, good friends.

I boarded the plane to meet my confused customs official at Stanstead and Nina, my London buddy from another London.

This might sound like the lunatic-y long way around to Budapest, but it was only a little more expensive to catch a later flight in Stockholm for London, crash on a couch, and take a flight the next day to Budapest. Otherwise, I would have to catch an earlier direct flight to Budapest from Sweden.

I couldn’t turn down an opportunity like that!

This was the second time I passed through London and saw Nina. The first London visit was over a year ago.

The night I arrived we hit the bars of East London, stayed until the lights came on in the bar and the Underground closed.

We turned down the chance to ride London’s new rentable Boris Bikes on the treacherous streets of London with some friends, opting for a long, winding double-decker bus ride home.

Nina and a new friend at the British Museum.

The next day we had brunch, hit the British Museum, saw mummies, Greek ruins and Assyrian antiquities, before rushing to the train that would take me to the airport for my flight back to Budapest.

The London visit was brief, just one day. Throughout the trip, I spent 6.5 hours in the air. I pushed through 4 different airports. I read a whole book while waiting, queuing, taxiing and flying. Why?

Seeing friends from home is a bit like visiting home, even if you’re in a strange place, it's a rare, priceless feeling.

Seeing old stuff with old friends at the British Museum.

Deep into the dark of the National Graveyard



The prettiest parks are not parks, they are cemeteries. It’s not appropriate to have a picnic and toss around a Frisbee, but there a few equals in beauty and calm than a stroll in a cemetery.

Budapest’s National Graveyard is no exception. It is similar to the big one in Paris. There are men of letters buried there, especially the poets, they love their poets here. Hungarian movie starlets. A few politicians: Deak, Kossuth, Batthyany, Antall.

Deak's mausoleum

Kossuth got a big monument.

Beyond the big names, there are richly decorative grave markers and crypts shaded by old, tall trees (a rarity in Pest’s centre).

It’s easy to forget to visit since it lacks the international resident's of Paris' cemetery, but it is no less compelling. Kata and I dropped in for one-hour walk to digest breakfast. It turned into an afternoon tour. We saw the great monuments and mausoleums near the entrance then, as we got deeper, saw the more remote corners of the cemetery. The grass was overgrown, the forest was taking over, and the stones were covered in vines and bushes.

Some markers were over 100 years old, others just 50 years old, many you simply could not tell. Had their families forgotten about them? Or was there no one left to pay the bills?

We went deeper into the darker ends of the cemetery, towards the walled edges where it backs up against the abandoned factories of Kobanya.

As the sun set and the air cooling, we left for sunnier parts of the cemetery, past newer grave markers. With little sun it got colder, so we settled in for warm goulash at a nearby restaurant.


A bit of Kobanya peeking over the wall.

Deep into the far corners of the cemetery.

Metro Politics

The Hungarian election came and went this past weekend. Fidesz, the incumbent ruling party, bullied its ways into power with its supermajority intact. It won despite entering the election with, according to some estimates, a 25 per cent approval rating.

I’m not going to get too deep into Hungarian politics, mostly because I have tried and failed in eight blog drafts, which lay crumpled in my computer’s recycle bin. It’s tough for a non-Hungarian, unable to read the local news or watch evening news, I rely reports from foreign sources and scuttlebutt from Hungarian friends  – all of which are helpful, but not completely reliable on their own.

When I sat to write this draft, I thought about what I have seen myself and what I know for certain.

Since my arrival to Hungary, construction is everywhere. A large public square near my apartment has constantly been closed with maze-like fenced detours. Some workers look as if they are simply rearranging bricks on the sidewalks. Others working in a heavily-used pedestrian underpass are hidden from sight behind partitions and there was not a lot of work noises coming from behind that partition.

Then there is Budapest’s fourth subway line, which has been under construction for, depending on who you ask, ten to twenty years. It has been held up as an object of infrastructure mismanagement and outright graft. All the signs are there: workers leaning on shovels every time I pass by, opaque government contracts, and construction that never ends.

This has changed. Roads and public squares and pedestrian underpasses have been miraculously completed in the weeks leading up to last weekend’s vote, culminating in the opening of Budapest's fourth subway line.

There are problems, of course. It is a relatively short line, the stops are close together (like five-minute walk close together), and its opening on the weekend before the election has clearly timed to coincide with the election.

Despite all of that, the completed subway is impressive to behold. Its high ceilings mean you do not feel like you are underground. Its tiled mosaics, curious lighting features, exposed concrete beams and buttresses, outdoor water features are attractive, without feeling excessive.

The Budapest transit authority allowed riders on the shiny new subway for free on its inaugural weekend. The whole city it seemed came out to check out this once mythical fourth subway line, including myself and a few friends.

Is it a monument to mismanagement and graft? Possibly, and it would not be surprising. Was its recent opening a feckless political maneuver conveniently timed to grab votes? Of course! But, I think we can all agree that despite all of this, at least it is very easy on the eyes.


The trippy mosaic at Szent Gellért tér

The escalator from heaven at Rákóczy tér. 

You can skip stones at Rákóczy tér. Good? Bad? Fun! 

These guys agree, it's a metro with a lot of room to breathe

A few of the stations, like Fővám tér, have high ceilings with criss-crossing concrete beams.